hydroplane

looks like i am stepin up a class or 2 i am grabn criss and going to port mac to pick up a fiberglass 18 ft hydro tomoro cant wait

Was that the black one on ebay by any chance?

Little Lucifer wrote:looks like i am stepin up a class or 2 i am grabn criss and going to port mac to pick up a fiberglass 18 ft hydro tomoro cant wait

.. is that the goldline hydro???cheers

yep shes the black gold line a bit ruff had one of the tyres blow on the way back didnt help the bodgy paint on the deck .dont think that will slow it down much so all i need to do now is steering , gearbox , shafts , and a motor how hard can that be are there any good books on how to set up a hydro out there?

No good books, but you will probably need to talk to a few people about how to set it up.

Spook

The Spook wrote:No good books, but you will probably need to talk to a few people about how to set it up.

Spook

There you go LL I think you just got a volunteer

the bloke i got it off said it had a blown small block with a vdrive.i just happen to have a few 5 litre holdens a couple of small blocks and 1 big block chev.i got a hains an helier v drive out of the scrap a few years ago a mate got it of me but he hasnt used it so he is sending it back should get that this week .so i guess find out what gearing and fresh up what ever it suits.at least when i get it going it wont sound like a hypo weed wacker[sorry criss] :

1st questions what should i make the skeg or skegs out of it has 2 the centre one looks ok but the rear is shaged it was made out of steel.guess n alloy is to soft but what about stainless steel?was thinking i will try to set it up with the same angles it had and go from there?but what if i was to put the prop out the back of boat and have the shaft about a inch lower or level with the bottom ??

good on ya,gunna be a fun build.in regards to set up ,
i have experience only with flatbottoms but i should think
the same basic rules apply.

EG,number of inches from tuck to engine
" " " " tuck to gearbox
once that is sorted you can determine prop shaft length

all i can say is,opinions are like noses, everyones got one, put it all together, make it safe, and go and have some fun.At least your doin it not dreamin about it.

yes , yes, i like all the opinons. especially flats one!!!! just build it simmo.... see ho it rumbles. your not stupid. best thing is to listen to your own instinct after someone else says "your going to come a guttsa" . just get a handle on it. ill even give you a hand at night if you pik me up from longjetty, "work". see what bits you can scrape up. my 2 bobs are free.

slow or fast, at least its another boat in our club we can all enjoy.

today i got it in my shed about time not easy to find a 20ft space at my place.pretty sure its first motor is going to be a 308 a car motor with a mild cam and a carby.
Then it gets intresting do i stay with the holden and go 4 vn heads efi or chev but for 2500bucks 6cyl jap turbo a aftermarket comp and a very easy 750 hp and stock motor that will handle more sounds good value but i do love the pushrod dinosours but time is catching up with them and $2500 dont go that far with a old iron v8 guess i will wait and see what comes along .i do have a good pile of small block chev go fast parts building up maybe enough for a 327 and a 350 .So what do you think out there witch way should i go???

single carby 327 sounds like alot fun,parts and engine mounts are easily found cheaply but the jap idea sounds very interesting!!.

A Carby 327 would be a good starting point. 10 to 1 compression with a hydraulic cam.

Nice easy package. Run it on pump petrol.

Spook

i just seen on EBAY some chev side engine mounts,fair price?just thought lucifer might want em.

hay flat have allready got them on watch but i am thinking of making a plate off the water pump to to mount the motor.not sure whats best but i like to make everything from scratch prob work out cheaper to buy them but when its all done and going i like to look at it and say hay i made that

totally agree with ya mate,thats how i built my deal.i used to run chev and what we did, is use 1/2" alu plate that went across from one stringer rail to the other and bolted it to the front of the block.two bolt holes either side of the crank nose.hope this helps mate.never feel that you can never ask me a question

simon . dont use stainless steel for your skeg or your turn fin 8 mm thick bizzaloy steel for your turn fin..thick wall mild steel for your skeg tube take some skeg bush with you when you go looking for the tube..use mild steel plate for the rest of the skeg either 10 mm or 12 mm thick..shamfer the mateing edges where your going to weld them together use tripple row fillet weld overlapping each weld by half the welds thickness..if you need a hand just yell out..cheers gary..

hey lucifer,could you please show us all some pics of the build from start to finish.I for one, am very interested in this project and judging by the input by the people in the know, they are to.Even a couple of pics at this early stage would keep my curiosity at bay.thanks mate

i will get some photos on as soon i can get some one who knows how to do it .i cant get them out of kodak files not for lack of trying.got a srp race suit with built in life gacket and helmet restraint pretty flash from the states today.now back to the boat still unsure on the donk a mate in syd has a few 308 s and reccons 1 is a ball tearer so i have started on the front going to make a kirby style high back seat and centre the steering wheel and join it all together in a alloy sub frame with protection bar around the back and down the sides joining up to the steering with some sort of plate near my feet to stop me going under the dash .

sounds bloody good to me mate, have fun, flat

Here is a curved ball, it's all about fun and doing it cheaply & reliably while making the right noises.
My vote - V8 Lexus.
$995.00 for a complete motor - no rebuild necessary, modify the top of the Lexus intake and bolt on a holley (1 hour and $80), shorten a chev dizzy and run off the front left cam gear (2 hours and about $100 in bits), make a set of pipes ($250 in steel, 5 hours in the shed with 2 X boxes of beer), bolt it all in.
End result - 6800rpm all day every day for day in, day out.
Is a V8 so it sounds right.
When it wears out (one of mine lasted 5 years!!!), replace it with another $995 special.
Light weight (all alloy) = less strain on the hull, and easier to handle.
4 valve OHC design = 300hp all day reliably., and without the complicated computer stuff.
As they say, prease consider

if i had a hydro,i would definitly look at it.

i went and had a look at one today looked pretty good so i got them to fork it in the back 4by.was thinkin about the carby the holley sounds real easy but a man needs a mission so i stopped at a bike wreckers and came out with 2 sets of r1 carbys .so now i have 4 cams 32 valves and 8 carbys[ thats got t be a can of worms ]